Magome and Tsumago: Following the Footsteps

 

All roads lead to Tokyo. Anyone who has traveled in Japan will have heard of the Tokaido — even if they didn’t know its full significance. This “Eastern Sea Road” once connected the imperial court in Kyoto with the Shogun’s capital in Edo (modern-day Tokyo). Today, it’s also the name of the shinkansen line tracing the same route.

Less famous but equally historic is the Nakasendo, which linked the same two centers of power but took a different path — winding through Japan’s mountainous interior. While much of the route has been modernized or erased, a few stretches remain beautifully preserved. The most renowned section is the 8-kilometer path between the post towns of Magome-juku and Tsumago-juku, straddling the border between Gifu and Nagano prefectures.

In the late 20th century, local residents rallied to preserve these towns, fighting against progress and neglect to restore them to their Edo-period glory. The result is a remarkable revival. Though the inevitable encroachment of modernity lurks just a street or two away, these pockets of history now cater to tourists rather than travelers passing through on official business.

The charm of Magome and Tsumago goes beyond their traditional wooden buildings and quaint shops. For those who, like me, crave peaceful immersion in nature, the walk connecting the two towns offers a richer experience and endless photo opportunities.

We traveled by train from Nagoya to Nakatsugawa, then hopped on a tourist-friendly bus to Magome. Approaching from the west, this is the easiest way without a car or if you intend to walk the trail. The Nakasendo here climbs up to about 800 meters in elevation, so starting at Magome — perched higher than Tsumago — makes the trek a bit easier. From the bus stop, follow the human chain of hikers back and left, ascending through impeccably preserved streets.

The trail is well marked in English, Japanese, and Korean. Walking on the original stone path is a delight, the only disappointment coming from a few jarring patches of tarmac that broke the illusion of stepping back in time. This is the Japan immortalized in classic woodblock prints, Kurosawa films, and Basho’s haikus. Towering bamboo groves, terraced rice paddies, carp-filled ponds, and wooden waterwheels fill your view. Above, clouds drift through the green patchwork of mountains. On the light drizzle day we walked, we felt as though the world belonged solely to us.

About halfway along, two crystal-clear waterfalls cascade beside the path. This spot is busier, attracting visitors who drive between towns and stop briefly to tick the falls off their itinerary. There are benches here, and the roar of the water opens the area, making it a perfect resting point.

Between the two towns, Magome feels more picturesque, its compact layout and hillside position lending it postcard charm. Tsumago, on the other hand, is larger and livelier — better suited if you’re growing tired and in need of a break. Its bustling stretch includes shops, restaurants, museums, a post office, and a tourist information center. However, the crowds here persuaded us to push on through town and beyond. Upon reaching Tsumago, you can catch a bus or taxi back to Magome, or travel on to Nagiso or Nakatsugawa stations.

If you still have energy, walking back is an option. We preferred to keep moving and avoid crowds, so we agreed on the 3.5-kilometer hike to Nagiso station. This route meanders through similarly rustic scenery but sees fewer tourists, so the signage becomes sparse — though not confusing.

From Nagiso, a local train returns you to Nakatsugawa, where the hum of 21st-century Japan awaits, whether you’re ready for it or not.